宋都御街游记(1 / 1)

求学于北宋古都——开封,漂泊于南宋遗都——杭城,大概是我欲言又止的事情。仿佛百年前,一个寒门子弟仕途不得意,恰逢乱世,随帝迁都,一路贬迁,无所作为。从此,只好埋身诗词,泼文弄墨,种竹舞剑,消磨余生的时光。之于我,只是没有他那份豁达与闲情,而是背着一家人的生计辗转南国,背着年少时仰天立志的抱负流落江南,故而形似神非,也算值得诉说,调侃一二!

既然驻足此地,眼下互联网行业如日中天,正从杭州起步,未来的发展前景还是蛮看好的,毕竟站在风口上,猪都能飞起来,所以我便搭车追赶这股城市化发展的红利。这是我一点点的私心,更是我赖以维持的生计。只是,偶尔工作之余,常常一头钻进某个弄堂,邂逅一段闲趣时光,常常一日西湖闲逛,亲身体察湖光山色的四时之景,玩味南国的风骨与情趣,收藏白墙灰瓦间的郎朗情绪。因此,也算得上一番雅致!

读万卷书不如行万里路,将书中诗人所描摹之景,与实境联系领悟,真真更上一层境界。例如“接天莲叶无穷碧,映日荷花别样红”的西湖,还有“泉眼无声惜细流,树阴照水爱晴柔”的宋都御街,味道轻柔,碧色熏眼,不禁令人赞叹一番。

而我今日想细细慢谈的是宋都御街,而非西湖,原因很简单,西湖之大,大概一周的时间方能游尽,更何况不同的时间不同的景致,这一汪从天上银河倾斜而下的人间湖泊,我想是人言难以道出她的味道的。而宋都御街却与之相反,在于小而美,繁华与人文并举,遗迹与匠艺并生,皆为人事,而非物语。

如果论名气,当然开封的宋都御街,略胜一筹,毕竟宋朝的鼎盛时期皆在北国,但实话道来,开封的宋都御街总感觉皇家的威严多一些,井巷里的灵韵少一些,尽管气派凌人,可不如温玉般润眼,这是一大缺憾。更甚的是,开封的宋都御街植被稀少,仿佛整个建筑被岁月渐渐耗尽了生命般,而杭城的宋都御街,恰恰相反,楼阁店铺鳞次栉比,其匾额、楹联、幌子、字号宛若在翠绿欲滴的古枫浓阴下,在灯架上的粉娇牵牛花瓣上、于清澈溪水坏绕的睡莲间重生!可谓触景生情,一步一景,不是夸张的说辞。

最值得路人赞叹,莫过于极具巷里文化风采的路边货郎摊,它的一把油纸扇,让人念起《雨巷》中那个宛若丁香花般的多愁姑娘;一串摇曳着清脆声响的风铃,挂在车篷前,仿佛静候她的主人来取;还有美轮美奂的陶瓷艺术品,案牍上的墨色戒尺,文房四宝等,不胜枚举,但一一皆见大宋风情,这让路人流连忘返,频频回首,狠不得把整个木车都推回家去,慢慢玩索。所以,我对此物的贪婪,是不是七宗醉啊?

进入主街道后,这种货摊似乎有些相形见绌了,因为琳琅满目的商品店,瞬间扑进你的视野,特色小吃店的叫卖声,银器店的匠人打磨耳环的铁器碰撞声,用犀牛角制作梳子的木器加工声,声声入耳,喧哗倾泻一地,胜于南宋当年的盛况。若非亲眼目睹,你定会失神,不小心将自己的记忆丢在身后,感叹人世间怎会有此浮上尘埃的盛世!

石雕、木雕、玻璃艺术品、铜器艺术,在人头攒动的街道上泛出浸透时光的美,最后被来自天南地北的游客买走,成为一段故事的序,又是一章难以忘怀的人生境味,这样的文字,难道不该去纪念与追问吗?

令我触动的不止这些,还有那些在路中央,搭个棚子以画谋生的艺人,一幅陌生的肖像,一笔粗细均匀的线条,便成为烙印缘分的线索,难以道尽人生。这美,不在死去的历史,而在鲜活的生命;这美,不在蜚声国际的名声,而在默默无闻的巷里文化。

所以,杭州是南国人文风采的集聚地,是任何一个文人必须卧榻生命的地方,我侥幸流落与此,也算是一种牵绊余生的缘分。正如金庸笔下的虚竹,棋错一步,却解开了自己人生的珍珑棋局,故而,焉知祸福,我唯能顺天命,尽人事罢了!

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